Visit a hamam, step back in time to old Yemen

Yemenis flock to traditional Turkish-style bathhouses

SANAA : A hint of incense in the dark and narrow alleys leading to the 410-year-old Hamam al-Abhar in the Yemeni capital's old city reminds the visitor that each step taken is one farther back into history.

For centuries, the traditional Turkish-style bathhouse, hamam in Arabic, has been a cornerstone of life in the Middle East, a place for social gatherings as well as for ritual cleansing.

Many hamams are also architectural jewels in their own right. Inside Hamam al-Abhar men of all ages relax after their steam bath in rounded halls where beams of natural light stream through holes in dome-shaped ceilings.

Sanaa has been inhabited for more than 2,500 years, and its old quarter, a UNESCO World Heritage site, has 14 hamams in an architectural treasure trove of 103 mosques and more than 6,000 houses, all built before the 11th century.

On arrival at Hamam al-Abhar, bathers leave their traditional daggers and long white robes in lockers before indulging in the age-old ritual.

Many believe a visit to the hamam helps to keep disease at bay, while others swear it does wonders for sexual prowess.

For 65-year-old jeweler Ismail Abu Taleb, the hamam is a place where friends can discuss the issues of the day as they chew qat, the mildly narcotic leaves used daily by most Yemenis.

"I live in the old city and visit this hamam almost every day," he told AFP. "For many people, all these surroundings are remnants of a glorious history, but for us history is part of our daily lives."

Boosting sex life

Hashem al-Hamzei, a 30-year-old merchant with two wives, says he comes to the bathhouse four days a week both to bathe and also to boost his sex life.

"The hot water and the massage makes your blood circulate better and makes you a better man during the night," he said, explaining that he divides the days of the week between his two women -- and also takes a day off.

"Tuesday is my private day. I come here to bathe, enjoy time with my friends. On that day I cannot look at any woman."

Hamzei said that most of the young generation in Yemen visit hamams for the same reason. "The hamam is just the beginning. Then chewing the qat makes you feel like a tiger," he added with a smile.

The first stage of the ritual is the warm room, where bathers perspire in a flow of hot dry air as they sit on stone black benches.

The next room is warm and humid. Here customers wash, and the soapy water runs away through gutters cut into the floor.

In the hot massage parlor, a masseur pummels vigorously at a client, working on his legs, hands, stomach and back.

For women only

The hamam's doors also open at other times for women only, especially on Thursdays, the weekend in Yemen when most weddings take place.

"On the wedding day special rituals are observed for both bride and groom," said Yehya al-Sadik, 40, one of the owners of Hamam al-Abhar.

"After the bride takes a steam bath, special oil and incense is used on her body to prepare her for the big night."

The cost of a visit to the bathhouse varies between 200 riyals (one dollar) and 2,000 riyals.

"As soon as the client enters the hamam, he is charged 200 riyals and then the price depends on what the client wants. For each service there is a price. That may also include lunch inside the hamam," said Sadik.

Many Yemenis also believe visiting the hamam is good for the health, and that a day there is better than any prescription from the doctor.

Some also say it is a natural remedy to combat swine flu, the potentially deadly A(H1N1) virus sweeping the world.

"My son Mohammed is suffering from flu, so I bring him here for a daily bath. The hot water and steam are better than any medicine," said Khaled Rafiq, 39.